Showing posts with label Lahore. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lahore. Show all posts

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Rooftops

Behind me is a window to the world. Rather, to a 700 year old portion of Lahore's old city. Lower-middle class Pakistani's live here, doing lower-middle class Pakistani things. I watch the rooftops sometimes, when there isn't much to do at work. Rooftops of different heights, different shapes, widths, colours and even some with tiles. Roofs with water tanks, with stairs and chicken coops. Rooftops with charpai (the traditional Pakistani bed/cot) or acting as cricket courts and as kite-flying platforms. Although I can only see the tops and the outsides of these homes, I feel that I still get a somewhat secret glance into this world.

During Lahore's normally dusty winter days, I can only see a few, those closest, and the community mosque. But on days like today, I can see far, to the horizon, where this neighborhood blends with the next and the next, all Pakistan, all Lahore. A new neighborhood begins with each Mosque Minaret, the inhabitants of which probably know each other in passing or even quite well, as the families who live in these homes, have often lived there, generation to generation, for hundreds of years. This area houses some of the City's 9 million inhabitants, that is, those who are lucky enough to have a roof overhead.


These people do not have the servants, A/Cs and the multiple cars that the upper classes have, but they do have enough food on their tables, enough money to send their children to school and small businesses to sustain themselves. They respect their homes, and keep them clean to the best of their abilities. The homes are usually lived in by extended family units, creating an atmosphere of dependence, comfort and often joy, as children's voices ring out in courtyards or on these very rooftops. Already I see children flying small plastic kites, although the kite flying festival, or Basant, doesn't officially begin until March. The wind is starting to pick up, and these kids want practice before the big event.


The children who live in these homes often have dreams about becoming doctors or engineers. Their dreams are often squashed when they grow old enough to understand Pakistan's rigid socio-economic structure, which most often binds people to the rung into which they were born, limiting upwards social mobility, limiting the dreams of studying medicine or engineering due to the cost and the time involved. The schools they go to are not those that feed into the best universities or even give them the scholarships they would need to go abroad, rendering them largely uncompetitive even if they do pursue these dreams.

The older generations living in these homes, especially the women, may be illiterate, while the younger are learning basic English in schools, and can write both Urdu Script, and Roman English. The schools these youngsters go to still face a lack of trained teachers, up-to-date or quality materials, and will not provide students with comfort in the 8 Degree Celcius winters or the +50 Degree summers.


Children in these communities are are raised to respect and fear the wrath of Allah and to live by strict Islamic principles. A mixture of fundamentalism from older generations and the media's portrayal of a more lax western youth create an interesting paradoxical influence in the lives of these children. Most of the boys grow up to own both shalwar kameez and jeans, worn side by side on alternative days, the girls however, as they portray the family's honour and face life-long humiliation if not properly married off, remain in their traditional dress, often choosing to use a hijab, chador or full covering in later years.


The people living in these homes often exhibit an awkward combination of religious zeal and western cravings, as I assume is the case in most cities braced on the brink of modernity.


Friday, August 21, 2009

In continuation, more photos from the past months in Pakistan:


Smoke circle seen in the sky above the attack

The only way in which to describe the moments prior to the above (and below) photo is by describing the fear, the heart beat, the realization and the devastation. These photos were taken minutes after the May 27th Suicide Bomb Blast in at the Rescue 15 building in Lahore. Coincidentally, my workplace is just a short 500 meters distance from the site of the Blast. For me, the seconds (which, of course, seemed like minutes) during the actual explosion were soul shaking, heart fluttering, madness. I can only recall gripping my desk, as if thinking that the floor would surely fall out from under me, the window panes exploding around me and with eyes-wide, stumbling to say 'was that a bomb...?'.
For me, a gori in Pakistani clothes, the most awful realization of all was the quickness with which the excitement died, and the unsettling calm which followed, almost as if nothing had occurred. As my hands were still shaking, colleagues were typing. As my heart beat again slowed to the norm, coworkers were discussing the balancing of accounts.
Pakistanis are amazing. This country has been through so much in terms of violence and pain- Pakistanis understand that blasts and guns cannot be given too much heed, as attention is exactly what the Taleban want.

Ignorance is bliss. Or, rather, ignorance is not acceptance.




The smoke hovering in the sky, seconds after the blast. The blast site is just behind the white building.


Formal event at LUMS:


The three Germanic speakers (Felix, Laura, Matthias)


Lovely Hadiya and I.


Sahiwal and the Countryside: Desi Life.

Sorting chillis.

Bangra dancing...these kids can dance like I've never seen before!


Village home.


Safder drinking some pure, clean water...


Drying corn.

I'm having trouble with my internet connection, and expecting a power outage soon....ah the joys of Pakistan.
These photos above show the varied contexts of Pakistan...the fear and terror to the beauty and purity of the land. I will add more photos of my time in the country side and in Harappa (the ancient civilization) in my next post. (When the power goes back on).

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Time has passed...

Since the first post, about 3 months have passed. I do not have the time, nor the will, to write follow up posts for each and every interesting event which may or may not have occurred. For this reason I have decided to document the activities and adventures of the past months with photos and short descriptions: (click on any photo to see it bigger)

Preparing for the wedding...Matt just bought a new Shalwar Kameez. He comes running out of the room..."Umm, I think I bought the wrong size...??!?!". Ha!


This is the first wedding we went to. The bride is made to look like a doll, and is not allowed to laugh, let alone smile, during the ceremony. Societal rigidity, even during celebrations.


The beautiful fabric of my 'fancy shalwar kameez'.


Matthais and I at the wedding.



Wagah Border:

During a short trip to Wagah border.

Wagah border (with India). Notice, gender segregation, even here.


The closing of the border ceremony. A great opportunity for guards to grunt, stomp, shout and spew their hatred for India. Fabulous...


Pakistani Guard. Wagah Border.





Short video showing the border guards.


A Trip Around Lahore:

The minad-au-Pakistan staute.



Badshahi Mosque, Lahore.

Me, In front of Badshahi Mosque.


Lahore Museum


Mosque


5 times a day, this tower belches out Azan.
Allah Akhbar, there is only one God...


Safder; my guide through Pakistan...

Lahore Fort


Mosque with Safder (hot feet)


Big Mosque!!


Mosque!



More to come in the next post: Sahiwal and the countryside, Multan, ect.

First Month in Pakistan

Asalamalaikum!

With the cusp of my first month behind me, I think it is about time to tell you all of my recent experiences in Pakistan. Upon my tardy arrival in Lahore, a cheerful crowd of AIESEC’ers, who welcomed me with posters declaring my arrival, open arms and cheerful faces, thankfully greeted me. The fact that I was almost 4 hours late, had me experiencing moments of panic during my flight- thoughts of arriving in Pakistan alone without any idea of where to turn, kept me occupied during the 2.5 hour flight from Dubai to Lahore.



As AIESEC Lahore, is based in the elite Lahore University of Management Sciences (LUMS), I spent my first days within the LUMS bubble of a well kept campus, continuous electricity, air conditioning, and highly educated people. This time gave me ample opportunity to slowly acclimatize to the idea that I was now living in Pakistan (something which probably, even now, hasn’t quite sunk in yet).

Lahore is a city of atleast 10 million inhabitants, divided thoroughly into areas based very much upon socio-economic factors. LUMS, and our current apartment, are located in the Defence Housing Authority (DHA), possibly the most prestigious place to live in all of Pakistan. With armed guards on each corner, wide streets, green grass, large homes, and neighbourhoods named after letters of the alphabet (ie A-block, B-block, C-block, etc…) it is easy to forget that poverty, lack of education, and gender inequality make up the majority of Pakistan’s some 172 million inhabitants. The reason I mention this, is because it is surprisingly easy to forget that one is in Pakistan at all, if one keeps well within the limits of the DHA…

Although it may sound rather ridiculous, my first important order of business upon arrival in Pakistan was a trip to the ‘H-block’ textile market. With clusters of stores filled with a heart racing overabundance of colourful fabrics, these stores cater solely to the female shopper, on her quest to find the perfect material for the newest addition to her collection of shalwar kameez. Once in these stores, it is difficult to subdue the feeling of complete sensory overload, as store attendants shove fabrics covered in multi-coloured stripes, flowers and patterns into one’s face, all the while attempting to outbid each other with prices and names. Thankfully, I had a trusted female companion, who knew the process of shopping for the perfect fabrics all too well. After 45 minutes, filled with picking, choosing, looking, locating and finally bargaining, we headed to the nearest tailor. He then turns these swaths of fabric (3 pieces for each shalwar kameez) into proper shalwar, kameez, and dopatta. Within a week, a great sense of pride filled me, as I sauntered down the lane, in my very own, outrageously multicoloured and patterned shalwar kameez.

As a women living in this Muslim country, it is not compulsory to cover my hair. It is however, highly recommended, or even completely necessary in some instances. When visiting a mosque it is expected that women cover their hair, and remove their shoes (just as it is completely necessary that men uncover their hair). I also find it a form of protection from the stares of some, to cover my hair in certain situations- especially when leaving the protection of the DHA or in rural areas. And I always carry my dopatta, or long rectangular piece of fabric, for the instances when I do feel it necessary to cover hair, or skin.

I suppose I should address the principal reason for my trip to Pakistan; work.
As a ‘media affairs and public relations’ intern for the nationalized Sui Northern Gas Pipelines Ltd (SNGPL), I am responsible for the creation of the monthly newsletter, and partially responsible for the creation of this years’ Natural Gas Conservation Campaign. I work in a small team of about 7 people, all are open, friendly, helpful and extremely curious about my culture, upbringing and whether I am the ‘biased, xenophobic, violent, heretical and taboo- filled, archetypical American’ as the Pakistani’s see it. They have quickly come to identify me, simply as, ‘the German’.

Even with an apartment in ‘T-Block’, DHA, we are not protected from the electrical load shedding, heat, mosquitoes and smells of Pakistan. With an average of 16 hours of electricity per day (give or take), I find that the electricity continuously goes out at precisely those moments when one would need it most. This, I suppose, is nothing more, than the common ‘Murphy’s law’.
In Pakistan, in the summer months (which means March to November), it is HOT. Hot, as in, 45 Degrees C in the SHADE. Maybe you can imagine how hot it is inside our (as of yet) non-air-conditioned home. The only adjectives I could use to define this ever-increasing heat are ‘stifling’, ‘suffocating’ and ‘seething’- the alliteration was unintentional, I swear. Although everyone here tells me, that the long sleeves and pants covering one’s body ‘help’ with the heat, I am inclined to disagree completely, vehemently even, and often have the feeling of actually melting while walking down the street. I have become prejudiced against any sort of outdoor physical activity between the hours of 9:00 and 22:00, unless, of course, it is for a trip to the ice cream store. I even find myself dreading weekends, as we have air-conditioning at work.

With our first trip outside of Lahore, Matthias (Austrian housemate) and I, had the opportunity to go to Kasur, considered a ‘small town’ despite its 1 million inhabitants, located on the Indo-Pakistani border where Sufism, and Matt’s boss, were born. Before entering Kasur, we went to the outer-laying village where Matt’s boss has some family, we visited their home, made of mud, greeting their children with 'Asalamalaikum', a greeting from God, and drank the hot, sweet, milky chai so common to Pakistan.
Kasur proved to be a swelling city, full of people, motorcycles, rickshaws, bikes, cars, peddlers, beggars, small shops, beautiful mosques, and delicious eateries. After savouring the area’s delicatessen, fried fresh-water fish, I covered my hair, removed my shoes and entered the hot open spaces of the local mosque. I am again, and again, surprised by human kindness, not only having been permitted, but actually invited to enter the ‘male-only’ portion of the Mosque, to view the institution's pride and joy, some 1,000 year-old articles of its founder. Upon leaving, I was gifted a beautiful deep green wall hanging, with Quranic verses, written in beautiful, and colourful calligraphy.
Outskirts of Kasur.
Cows in front of traditional painted trucks, Kasur.

With continuous speak about the Taleban’s threats, the PPP’s inefficiencies, murders, rapes, and inequalities, it may be hard for some to believe that I have only encountered kindness, curiosity, and heart warming welcomes during my time here. I look forward to experiencing more and more of this rich culture, these wonderful people, and Urdu, a language which I hope to learn in the coming months.